Thursday, July 1, 2010

June 7th -- Bienvenue à paris


Students arrived from all corners of the US and met at the Pension du Palais, our home for the next two weeks. The pension sits on the edge of the Luxembourg gardens, in the 6th arrondissement and provides an ideal location for accessing the city.



We spent the day familiarizing ourselves with our new neighborhood, the Paris Metro, and the local speciality food shops, including an inviting boulangerie.


After reviewing the course schedule, we set out on a walk to explore our new city. The beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg; built for the court of Marie de Médicis and now open to the public, attracts students, families and artists alike. Leaving the gardens, we continued down Boulevard Saint-Michel to the Seine and Notre Dame Cathedral. Standing in front of the cathedral we reveled in the first of many arresting Paris sights. Revived by the walk and the stunning views we returned to the pension and enjoyed our first group dinner . Most of us were off to bed after dinner for some much needed sleep.

June 8th -- Modernism & the Ballets Russes







We dove into the course content today. Pairing images of artistic work with the course readings and discussion, the morning lecture reviewed overall themes and concepts of Modernism. Referencing specific art the group located and discussed ideas and theories that frame the dynamic innovations that define this movement. The resources of the city will guide our understanding of the significant role Paris played in the foundation of Modernism.




During the second half of the day we focused on dance and the ground- breaking collaboration that created the Ballets Russes. Under the guidance of impresario Serge Diaghilev, choreographer Vaslav Nijinsky and composer Igor Stravinsky developed "Le Sacre du Printemps," or "The Rite of Spring." The Ballets Russes attracted artists from every art form: Matisse, Picasso, and Roerich designed costumes and Stravinsky composed seminal music scores. Watching the accompanying video clips of the re-staged Joffrey Ballet performance we began to see and understand the revolutionary nature of the Ballets Russes and its far-reaching influences. .

June 9th -- Théâtre de la Ville & Musée d'Orsay

This morning we met with Claire Verlet, the dance artistic director at the Theatre de la Ville. We were privileged to have Claire lead us on a tour of the theater and then present an insightful discussion of the philosophy behind dance programming at the national French theatre. She also discussed the theatre’s commitment to developing long-term relationships with their artists. Claire’s rich background as a contemporary dance performer and an arts administrator enhanced the presentation of dance artist Susanne Linke’s work. Claire defined the German dance legacy that informs Linke’s work; thus, we were better prepared for the powerful performance event that we would view later in the week. It was an exceptional opportunity to learn about contemporary European dance and arts programming.




In the afternoon we had a lecture at the The Musee D’Orsay by Art Historian Anne Catherine Abeccasis. Anne Catherine situated us in this former train station, built for the Universal Exposition of 1900, at the advent of the electric engine. In the 1980’s the outdated rail station was converted into a museum and it now displays art works created between 1848 and 1914. First, we walked upstairs for a look at an ornate, highly decorated waiting room that was very much in fashion when the train station was built. This room served as a visual reference point for the rest of our lecture. In order to better contextualize the revolutionary style the modern painters were adopting, we were asked to think about this room as a benchmark and indicator of poplar tastes for beauty and art at the beginning of the 20th century. We moved from these traditional notions of beauty to the works or Courbet and Manet whose canvasses were creating a sensation with their painting style and subject matter. Anne Catherine used Courbet’s “Burial at Ornan” and Manet’s “Le Dejenure sur Le’ Herbe” to elucidate the transformation that was taking place in painting.


These two artists were the launching point for our discussion and lecture on how the rules and techniques of painting were moving away from the academy and evolving into a modern form.

June 10th -- Baron Haussmann's Modern Paris & Le Vernissage

We toured the city today with architecture Professor Ulrike Kasper. We met at the Opera Garnier and began our walking lecture with a discussion of Baron Haussmann’s design of “modern” Paris. With Ulrike we walked through the covered glass passages of the 19th century, to the Palais Royal, the Louvre and beyond. She wove together the classic architectural history of Paris with the contemporary buildings and architectural installations.






That evening we attended a vernissage, an art opening, at the Palais de Tokyo. The show “Dynasty” brought together 40 contemporary French artists. The event took place at both the Palais de Tokyo and the Musée d'Art moderne and was packed with contemporary art, fashinistas, and burgeoning artists. Attendees spread onto the outdoor veranda that connects the museums, enjoying the pulsating music, dancing, and bonhomie.

June 11th -- Frigos & Centre Pompidou & Savion Glover's Bare Soundz


Today was an experience unlike any other: we visited the studio of composer Jacques Remus. A contemporary composer, Jacques creates music installations that integrate technology, sculpture and performance. His studio is housed in the artists squat “Frigos,” once a meatpacking facility; this hive of creativity now houses dozens of artists. Jacques let us experience first hand one of his creations. He invited students into a ‘performance space’ where their hands and body would control musical accompaniment. Moving their hands and their bodies students created sounds interacting with a motion capture keyboard.


After this studio tour Jacques treated us to a private tour of the Fairground Art Museum. This magical place is home to fairground antiques, carousels, and rides from the 19th century. We were invited to experience these antique games, including a bicycle merry go round from the 1890’s. The carousel was powered by our peddling, and as we moved the ride faster we cheered with delight. Jacques worked with the Fairground Art Museum to re-imagine the sound scores for the many different events and today fifteen computers drive the different visuals. The venue most certainly cast a spell on us!


Late this afternoon we met with Art Historian Anne Catherine Abeccasis at the Pompidou Center. This contemporary art museum located in the center of Paris provided the background for the continuation of our lecture on modern painters. Looking at the paintings of Matisse, Delaney, and Picasso, Anne Catherine rounded out the discussion of the major transformation that took place in the visual arts at the beginning of the 20th century. Her lecture culminated in a discussion of Duchamp’s ready-made "Fountain" and the symbolic role it played in bringing forth the conversation: What is art? What are the essential characteristics of art? And who defines art?


Théâtre de la Ville presented tap sensation Savion Glover's Bare Soundz and we were lucky enough to secure seats to this sold out performance.

June 12th -- Le nouveau photographie & Théâtre des Abbesses

Today Professor Shea presented a lecture about photography and its relationship within the context of the modernist movement in Paris. Photography, like painting, was experiencing a significant transformation, changing the traditional methods of representation and documentation. Photographers such as Atget, Kretesz, and Man Ray were experimenting with their subjects, compositions, and developing processes. This experimentation yielded wonderful visuals and new techniques such as solarization and rayographs and influenced many of its contemporary artistic movements such as Surrealism, Futurism and Dada.






In the evening we attended a performance of choreographer Susane Linke’s work. It was a stunning show comprised of five solo compositions, performed by Linke and three other dancers. The work was evocative and beautifully danced. The formal production elements, lights, costumes, and props were integral to the conceptual work and they enhanced the powerful impact of the overall work. A bathtub in the second solo became an animated partner to Linke's character in the performance. The lecture on the Ballets Russes and Claire Verlet’s talk framed this expressive performance in the context of Modernism.

June 13th -- Journée libre

Sunday – We took a break from the course work today and students were free to choose their own adventure. Many chose to visit Versailles – touring the chateau and enjoy the gardens.

June 14th -- Le Corbusier & Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris



Today we traveled to the Cite Universitaire, a University campus in Paris built after the first World War. The initial university design hoped to usher in an era of peace and understanding between nations through ties fostered between its youth.

Our guest lecturer, Serge Clavé, compared the more traditional buildings on the campus with the styles and development of Le Corbusier’s modern design sensibility. Pavillon Suisse and Maison du Brésil, built 30 years apart, allowed us to compare major design elements and to view changes Le Corbusier made in his own designs throughout his career.

June 15th -- Giverny


We ventured outside of Paris today to see Monet’s gardens. A train to Vernon, followed by a 5km bicycle ride led us to this Impressionist’s most famous muse, Giverny. The gardens have been restored to their original design and include thousands of blooming flowers: peonies, roses, lilacs and the iconic Japanese bridge. Our assignment was to photograph the garden and so we explored with an eye towards our own photographic renderings and discovery.

June 16th -- Musée de l'Orangerie





We followed up our day at Giverny with a visit to the Musée de l'Orangerie today. This museum houses eight of Monet’s water lily paintings; those created between 1916 and 1926. These canvases were his culminating works and he gifted them to the city of Paris before he died in 1927. The Orangerie building was renovated and reopened in 2005 and this renovation yielded architecture and design that support and accentuate the beauty of the work. Olivier Brochet, the architect who designed this modern renovation, allows a gentle diffused light to bathe the work.



The paintings completely surround the viewer. Their color, painterly mark making and sheer size create an all over sensory experience. Having visited Monet’s garden it is easy to imagine why he would want to recreate this ‘all over’ garden experience for the viewer. This museum is truly a beautiful symbiosis between the space and the work.

June 17th -- Jos Houben & Gérard Uféras


In the morning we met in a café with Jos Houben, actor and faculty at the Theatre LeCoq. Jos has worked with Complicité Theatre Company and Peter Brook, two of contemporary theatre’s most innovative thinkers. Additionally, Jos’s recent physical comedy master class, "The Art of Laughter" has received rave reviews throughout Europe. Jos discussed developing the show and locating resource material. He also shared his teaching philosophy, and gave specific examples of helping his students discover their own essential performance elements through physical exercises and exploratory studio work.




From our café talk, Jos led us over to the performance of the 2nd year LeCoq Theatre acting students. We joined an audience of sixty invited guests to view eight short performance events. The student actors develop a script based on a suggested phrase; they direct and, often, perform in these bright new theatre works. Ranging from humorous to deeply evocative studies, the honesty of the performance resonated in each work.

We continued discussing these thoughtful creations as we walked to the Marais for a falafel lunch.





In the afternoon we visited the photography show "Paris D’Amor" at the Hôtel de Ville. We enjoyed a lecture and an accompanied tour through the show by the photographer himself, Gérard Uféras, who answered questions while sharing stories and experiences from the creation of this work. Over the course of two years, Gerard photographed seventy couples, ranging over Paris's 20 arrondissements, on their wedding day. As a child of immigrants himself, Gerard has a deep appreciation for the cultural and ethnic diversity in France and the opportunity that the nation affords its immigrants. It is with a subtle nod to these sentiments that his work celebrates the diversity within Paris and captures the sense of hope that transcends wedding celebrations.

June 18th -- Galeries Lafayette & Haute Couture


Today we attended a fashion show at Galleries Lafayette, enjoying the architecture and style of one of the world’s first ‘department stores.’ The building, located in the 1st arrondissement behind the Opera Garnier, was built on one of Baron Haussmann’s newly designed boulevards, close to the Gare St. Lazare. Completed in 1912 it boasts a beautiful stained glass ceiling and balconies that overlook the central shopping space.

The Galleries Lafayette became a major center of commerce in Paris in the early 20th century; and the fashions of the time are reflected in some of the modern artists whose work we examined earlier at the Musee d'Orsay.

In the evening we explored the Bastille neighborhood, a lively area of Paris, and the group dined together on tapas.

June 19th -- Bateaux Les Vedettes du Pont-Neuf



In the morning students gave short presentations on their research papers. Their forthcoming papers will cover a broad range of modernist topics and art forms. For example: Emily will write on Satie’s minimalist compositions comparing it to more classic predecessors like Wagner, while Logan will look at the modern elements of Gustave Eiffel’s most famous construction. These presentations gave us a chance to learn how each student will focus their research paper and gave insight into the type of work each person will develop.



The day ended with an idyllic sunset and a toast to Paris. We enjoyed a boat ride on the Seine tonight, gliding through the cities major sites and vistas; the Eiffel Tower, the Île de la Cité, and the Hôtel de Ville all looked their best as we motored by and imbibed the view.

June 20th--Au revoir à Paris


After two full weeks we waved Paris good bye- filled with art, performances and stories we head home and will savor the memories.